Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Camino Philosophy
Rory Stewart writes about walking through Afghanistan: "I was marking Afghanistan. I wanted to touch as much as possible of the country with my feet." I think what I want, in walking across Spain, is for the community, the energy, the culture, and the history of the camino to touch me.
No News Is?
May 30, 2007
I have not watched TV, listened to the radio, or read a newspaper during this whole month of May. I assume news continues to happen, but I don´t really know. It is an interesting feeling.
I have not watched TV, listened to the radio, or read a newspaper during this whole month of May. I assume news continues to happen, but I don´t really know. It is an interesting feeling.
Los Pajaros/The Birds
Watching birds along the way has been an added pleasure though often, I don´t know what bird I´m looking at. Some of these birds seem to sing in English and other in Spanish. Storks, for me, are the most dramatic of the Spanish birds I´ve seen, though I haven´t seen one for a few days. My book says they migrate here from Africa to raise their young. That sounds kind of exotic to me, and when they fly, they are strikingly beautiful.
There is another strinking bird that I am told is a magpie. I don´t think I have ever seen one in the U.S. For awhile I was calling it a padre bird because it is black and white, but now I know better. Also, we see many swallows. I am not used to seeing them in town.
I have not seen a cuckoo, but I have heard them often. There is no mistaking their call; they sound just like a cuckoo clock. They always sound like they are a distance away, and I am told it is rare to see one.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Approaching Santiago
May 29, 2007
We are now in Galicia, the province of Santiago. There are concrete markers that measure each 1/2 kilometer of the distance to Santiago. Today we passed "100 km a Santiago.¨ Many people were taking pictures there, and we did too. (There are three of us now. Elena arrived last Friday.)
The terrain and energy level of the walk seems to be changing. Our goal is near, plus, I think the terrain is more exciting--ups and downs and incredible mountain vistas. Plus, it is very green! I continue to love it except when it rains. Today was very rural and we passed many small dairy farms and farm dogs sleeping on the path. We are in Portomarin tonight, a nice sized town with lots of shops. It is a "new town built when the old one was ´drained´by the waters of the new resevoir." The curch was "dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in the new town. It is a lovely church and the town is very pleasant.
We are now in Galicia, the province of Santiago. There are concrete markers that measure each 1/2 kilometer of the distance to Santiago. Today we passed "100 km a Santiago.¨ Many people were taking pictures there, and we did too. (There are three of us now. Elena arrived last Friday.)
The terrain and energy level of the walk seems to be changing. Our goal is near, plus, I think the terrain is more exciting--ups and downs and incredible mountain vistas. Plus, it is very green! I continue to love it except when it rains. Today was very rural and we passed many small dairy farms and farm dogs sleeping on the path. We are in Portomarin tonight, a nice sized town with lots of shops. It is a "new town built when the old one was ´drained´by the waters of the new resevoir." The curch was "dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in the new town. It is a lovely church and the town is very pleasant.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Two Memorable Meals
May 28, 2007
Last night we stayed in a small refugio. The host prepared dinner for about 20 of us, and we ate together at one long table. It was one of the better dinners of the trip--four courses--a delicious squash soup, a beautifully presented salad (ensalada mixta), pasta carbonara, and a traditional pudding for dessert.
The night before, we ate in a small, charming restaurant in Villafranca la Bierza. The restaurant, La Puete Perdon, served delicious food that was not quite the usual. We were eating our main dishes when suddently the woman at the next table began to sing. The room became silent except for her singing. The waiter stood still, and the cook came out to watch. She sang in French, so I´m not sure I understood the nuances of her performance, but she was good, and it added to my store of camino surprises.
Last night we stayed in a small refugio. The host prepared dinner for about 20 of us, and we ate together at one long table. It was one of the better dinners of the trip--four courses--a delicious squash soup, a beautifully presented salad (ensalada mixta), pasta carbonara, and a traditional pudding for dessert.
The night before, we ate in a small, charming restaurant in Villafranca la Bierza. The restaurant, La Puete Perdon, served delicious food that was not quite the usual. We were eating our main dishes when suddently the woman at the next table began to sing. The room became silent except for her singing. The waiter stood still, and the cook came out to watch. She sang in French, so I´m not sure I understood the nuances of her performance, but she was good, and it added to my store of camino surprises.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
High on Height
May 26, 2007
We have been doing mountain hiking, and it is very beautiful. We´re spending the night in a tiny town--Ruitelan. Beautiful! Not much else to say. As long as it doesn´t rain, it remains exhilerating and exciting. Tomorrow we will climb about 2,000 feet and reach, at the top of the climb, El Cebreiro, one of my most striking memories from the last time I did this.
We have been doing mountain hiking, and it is very beautiful. We´re spending the night in a tiny town--Ruitelan. Beautiful! Not much else to say. As long as it doesn´t rain, it remains exhilerating and exciting. Tomorrow we will climb about 2,000 feet and reach, at the top of the climb, El Cebreiro, one of my most striking memories from the last time I did this.
Thursday, May 24, 2007
Beautiful Day, Steep Price
Today´s walk has been fantastic. The guidebook says, most beautiful spot on the camino and the most difficult. True. We started out hiking in the clouds. After about an hour, the clouds lifted and we had the most incredible mountain views, wildflowers, butterflies, sunshine, cows, sheep, trees, and other nature chiches. We are spending the night in Ponferada. We arrived here around 5:00 PM, but we have seen this town, off and on, since 10:00 this morning.
Yesterday started out beautiful but then a drizzle turned into rain so strong we could see little but our feet, so we were forced to cut the hike short and stay in a small town that seemed to contain nothing but three refugios.
I feel very content tonight.
Yesterday started out beautiful but then a drizzle turned into rain so strong we could see little but our feet, so we were forced to cut the hike short and stay in a small town that seemed to contain nothing but three refugios.
I feel very content tonight.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Oldest Bridge in Spain, Longest Walk so Far
May 21, 2007
This bridge is supposed to be the oldest bridge in Spain. It is how we arrived in the town of Hospital de Orbigo after covering more walking distance than ever before--30k. I read that this bridge was built by the Romans in the 13th century though I thought I had read that it was older even that that. It is odd when our lives overlap with the lives of people living in the 13th century. I´ve been thinking today about the cathedral in Leon. I find it mind-blowing. I´m trying to imagine how it appeared to people who had never seen a photograph or a movie or talked on a phone. They must have thought it proof of God´s existence.
¡Awesome!
Brook and I could see the spires of the Leon Cathedral from quite a distance away, but it was only when we came around a corner and saw it up close that we could see how impressive it is. The design is amazing.It was built in the 13th century and added to later. Our guildebook says, "stained glass is as magnificent as anything anywhere in Europe." The stained glass took my breath away.
We are staying in the flat of a couple who have a good view of the cathedral from the window of their flat. They are Servas hosts and we are enjoying their hospitality.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
El Mundo es un Pañuelo
May 16, 2007
In Carrion de los Condes, I went shopping for a handkerchief. (Tissues are annoying for hiking.) The sales woman pulled down five flat boxes and showed me the selection. I chose a lovely white one with pink flowers. It was a satisfying little purchase. Later Brook siad she should have bought one too, so we can do this shopping again.
El Mundo es un pañuelo means "the world is a handkerchief¨;" the world is small. There is a sense of that here, especially the world of Europe, North, and South American. The other day there were five Americans in the refugio, a record number.
In Carrion de los Condes, I went shopping for a handkerchief. (Tissues are annoying for hiking.) The sales woman pulled down five flat boxes and showed me the selection. I chose a lovely white one with pink flowers. It was a satisfying little purchase. Later Brook siad she should have bought one too, so we can do this shopping again.
El Mundo es un pañuelo means "the world is a handkerchief¨;" the world is small. There is a sense of that here, especially the world of Europe, North, and South American. The other day there were five Americans in the refugio, a record number.
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
International Picnic
May 16, 2007
Todaya we walked 18k through the mesata, farmland that reminds me a little of southern Indiana. Usually, we don´t walk this far without a bar for coffee and snacks. We stopped at the one table at the side of the road for our snack and joined two Italian women, three Germans, and a man and his son-in-law from Brazil. Tonight we stay in Calzadilla de la Cueza, a very small town.
Todaya we walked 18k through the mesata, farmland that reminds me a little of southern Indiana. Usually, we don´t walk this far without a bar for coffee and snacks. We stopped at the one table at the side of the road for our snack and joined two Italian women, three Germans, and a man and his son-in-law from Brazil. Tonight we stay in Calzadilla de la Cueza, a very small town.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Quick News
May 15, 2007
Brook has been here since Friday and has walked with me for four days. She has probably walked about 86 kilometers on the path and then a few more as we stroll and tour in the evenings. On Sunday (4-13) we spnt the night in Cartrojeriz. On Monday we spent the night in Fromista, and tonight we are in Carrion de los Condes. On Sunday I had the best meal on the camino and we may just have had the second best today.
We only walked about 20K today yet both of us felt very tired. Me, especially in the feet; Brook in the legs. We probably should have rested more along the way. Today, in terms of scenery, the least dramatic day yet, still, lovely--mainly just walking past crops, lots of wheat (triga)--some very new corn I think.
There is a bit of worry sometimes that the refugios will be full. A Texas walker has warned us that we may have problems tomorrow. That is one unpleasant element of the path. Apparently, a German comedian has written a book about the camino which has motivated more Germans to come. This may have pushed facilities too much. They are more crowded than last time.
We walked today with a 19-year-old from France. He spent 2-3 weeks in the US helping with Katrina repair. It was odd meeting someone from another country who had done aid-work in the US.
Brook has been here since Friday and has walked with me for four days. She has probably walked about 86 kilometers on the path and then a few more as we stroll and tour in the evenings. On Sunday (4-13) we spnt the night in Cartrojeriz. On Monday we spent the night in Fromista, and tonight we are in Carrion de los Condes. On Sunday I had the best meal on the camino and we may just have had the second best today.
We only walked about 20K today yet both of us felt very tired. Me, especially in the feet; Brook in the legs. We probably should have rested more along the way. Today, in terms of scenery, the least dramatic day yet, still, lovely--mainly just walking past crops, lots of wheat (triga)--some very new corn I think.
There is a bit of worry sometimes that the refugios will be full. A Texas walker has warned us that we may have problems tomorrow. That is one unpleasant element of the path. Apparently, a German comedian has written a book about the camino which has motivated more Germans to come. This may have pushed facilities too much. They are more crowded than last time.
We walked today with a 19-year-old from France. He spent 2-3 weeks in the US helping with Katrina repair. It was odd meeting someone from another country who had done aid-work in the US.
Sunday, May 13, 2007
Welcome Brook
May 12, 2007
Yesterday was a long rather ugly walk into Burgos. Kilometer after kilometer of industry and car dealershlips. Then we entered a more attractive downtown shopping and business area. Finally we entered the old part of the city built around a Gothic Cathedral (building started in 800 I think). There is a river through this part, beautiful trees, sculptures, plazas, and outdoor tables for eating and drinking. I went first to the municipal refugio because that was the place Brook and I were meeting. We arrived within 15 minutes of each other. She is struggling a bit with jet lag.
We walked 20k today and are staying in a small town called Hornillos del Camino. It feels like a combination of Southern Indiana farms and Spain--mainly wheat. We are entering a new region, more flat, more devoted to grain. I didn´t see a single vineyard today and maybe not the day before either.
Yesterday was a long rather ugly walk into Burgos. Kilometer after kilometer of industry and car dealershlips. Then we entered a more attractive downtown shopping and business area. Finally we entered the old part of the city built around a Gothic Cathedral (building started in 800 I think). There is a river through this part, beautiful trees, sculptures, plazas, and outdoor tables for eating and drinking. I went first to the municipal refugio because that was the place Brook and I were meeting. We arrived within 15 minutes of each other. She is struggling a bit with jet lag.
We walked 20k today and are staying in a small town called Hornillos del Camino. It feels like a combination of Southern Indiana farms and Spain--mainly wheat. We are entering a new region, more flat, more devoted to grain. I didn´t see a single vineyard today and maybe not the day before either.
Thursday, May 10, 2007
¨Where is my car?
May 10, 2007
It has been a hard walking day. My blister made my foot tender and there was a lot of up-hill and down-hill. However, I am now on one of the most modern refugios on the camino and relaxing at the computer in the bar (which is under the sleeping quarters). We are in a small town called Ages (pronounced something like Ah-hays).
I walked with the Canadian couple today. At one part, after a tiring up hill climb, we met two people from Germany. After greetings, the German man (pack on his back, boots on his feet) looked around and said, ¨Where is my car? Where is my car?
Brook arrives tomorrow. I hope we meet up without too much trouble.
It has been a hard walking day. My blister made my foot tender and there was a lot of up-hill and down-hill. However, I am now on one of the most modern refugios on the camino and relaxing at the computer in the bar (which is under the sleeping quarters). We are in a small town called Ages (pronounced something like Ah-hays).
I walked with the Canadian couple today. At one part, after a tiring up hill climb, we met two people from Germany. After greetings, the German man (pack on his back, boots on his feet) looked around and said, ¨Where is my car? Where is my car?
Brook arrives tomorrow. I hope we meet up without too much trouble.
Step by Step
May 9, 2007
Tonight, I am, as I was last night, in a small refugio which will serve a dinner to all. It has been a relaxing afternoon here. I was resting in the yard when 5-6 men rode up on beautiful horses. I understand that they are going to do a week on the camino, starting at Roncesvalles and ending around Leon. By the time I went inside and came back with my camera, the horses were unsaddled and being hosed down. Now, from inside, I hear occasional horse noises. They also have a small RV and driver carrying supplies.
I walked the first couple of hours this morning alone and then a couple of hours with a Canadian couple. There are a fair number of Canadians on my path. In the last couple of days, I have seen one American (from Florida but born in East Chicago, IN). The Canadian woman doesn´t want to talk to him. She says he reminds her of George Bush. It is interesting to be a minority in this international group. No one has said how much they appreciate American foreign policy.
I have acquired a painful blister on a toe, so I have sucumbed to a traditional camino cure. You go through the blister with a needle and thread (like one stitch) and then leave the thread in to aid drainage. We´ll see if this works tomorrow.
¡Buen camino! Good path!
Tonight, I am, as I was last night, in a small refugio which will serve a dinner to all. It has been a relaxing afternoon here. I was resting in the yard when 5-6 men rode up on beautiful horses. I understand that they are going to do a week on the camino, starting at Roncesvalles and ending around Leon. By the time I went inside and came back with my camera, the horses were unsaddled and being hosed down. Now, from inside, I hear occasional horse noises. They also have a small RV and driver carrying supplies.
I walked the first couple of hours this morning alone and then a couple of hours with a Canadian couple. There are a fair number of Canadians on my path. In the last couple of days, I have seen one American (from Florida but born in East Chicago, IN). The Canadian woman doesn´t want to talk to him. She says he reminds her of George Bush. It is interesting to be a minority in this international group. No one has said how much they appreciate American foreign policy.
I have acquired a painful blister on a toe, so I have sucumbed to a traditional camino cure. You go through the blister with a needle and thread (like one stitch) and then leave the thread in to aid drainage. We´ll see if this works tomorrow.
¡Buen camino! Good path!
Wednesday, May 09, 2007
Sleeping in Church
May 9, 2007
I stayed in an interesting place last night in Groñon. The refuge is attached to a 14th century church. Since it was full, I slept on a mat on the floor of the church. The volunters at the rufuge fixed salad and pasta for around 60 of us. It was tasty and friendly.
I stayed in an interesting place last night in Groñon. The refuge is attached to a 14th century church. Since it was full, I slept on a mat on the floor of the church. The volunters at the rufuge fixed salad and pasta for around 60 of us. It was tasty and friendly.
Monday, May 07, 2007
By Foot
May 7, 2007
I spent last night in Logroño with a Servas family. It was a charming visit. I ate dinner in their house and walked around a park in their town as well as the plaza near their flat. Yesterday was a perfert day. I walked 29k, the weather was comfortable, the scenery was fantastic, and a Frenchman arraged for our packs to be sent ahead. Without a pack, my feet had wings.
Today was fine but a little more tiring--27k with the pack. Glamor note--I have blister on my big toe.
I spent last night in Logroño with a Servas family. It was a charming visit. I ate dinner in their house and walked around a park in their town as well as the plaza near their flat. Yesterday was a perfert day. I walked 29k, the weather was comfortable, the scenery was fantastic, and a Frenchman arraged for our packs to be sent ahead. Without a pack, my feet had wings.
Today was fine but a little more tiring--27k with the pack. Glamor note--I have blister on my big toe.
Small World Department
May 7, 2007
Two nights ago in Los Arcos, I met a married couple from St. Paul, Minnesota. I refrained from saying, "I know someone from St. Paul." Then, they told me they were Unitarian ministers, so I asked, "Do you know Lisa D.?" It turns out they know her very well. For some reason, this amazes me. It was odd to be asked in this small Spanish town "Did you know Joel?" (I did.)
Two nights ago in Los Arcos, I met a married couple from St. Paul, Minnesota. I refrained from saying, "I know someone from St. Paul." Then, they told me they were Unitarian ministers, so I asked, "Do you know Lisa D.?" It turns out they know her very well. For some reason, this amazes me. It was odd to be asked in this small Spanish town "Did you know Joel?" (I did.)
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